So my Saber Lily has finally arrived from e2046. Everyone and their mother ordered one, much like Max Factory Ignis a couple of years back.
There are plenty of other reviews that have done an excellent job, such as Kodomut. And Lightningsabre has a nice little photoshop too.
It’s like the Monolith. e2046′s packaging scares me. But the figures always arrive perfectly with no dents or crushed boxes.
Jumping around on bubble wrap. I’ve got so much of this stuff, I can probably melt it and make a 1:8 scale out of it.
More jumping. Thanks for the wrap, e2046!
FINALLY!!! After much unwrapping!
HEY! Down in front!! You’re in the way of the shot!!
Well… what else am I gonna do with the extra sword?
Immediately mistreated. Downgraded to the “Bottom Feeders” shelf to fend for space with Ashe and Sephiroth. She’ll have to stay there until I can make some room somewhere else. Asuka is in danger of being put in storage! 
On the same day, we had to say goodbye to a very special brother and sister. Don’t worry, you’re going to a good home, and you helped pay for Lily!
Taking Kodomut’s awesome idea of feathers for Lily, I decided to do a photoshop image of Saber Lily with wings.
Click on the image for a full sized version!
It doesn’t really blend in all that much, but was still pretty fun to do. Here’s a youtube video of the whole thing being painted!
So ends another post. Have a good weekend everybody!
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Moka Halloween!!
As per my post on figure.fm about what I should photoshop next, I took the suggestions, of Amrita and did Moka in a cemetery. Perfect for Halloween!
Here’s the original photo I took. My wife had taken my DSLR to work today, so I was left with my POS Lumix FX-9 camera. Now, normally I wouldn’t complain, since this was the camera I used for most of my early photoshop images. But having gone to DSLR, going back to using this was terrible. The post processing done to this thing by the camera really really sucks. The ISO rating is so terrible, with an incredibly crappy shutter speed.
Ugh! Just look at the terrible grain! And this is at forced ISO 80! And not to mention the slight blurring from my unsteady hand!
Here’s the background image I used. I grabbed it from here. A site with free photos for anyone to use. This was perfect for what I was looking for.
And the final image. Click on it for a bigger pic. It’s a bit bluer than what I was hoping for, but with how badly the lighting matched, there wasn’t anything else I could do to correct it.
Of course, here’s a youtube video of it being done:
Have a happy and safe Halloween everyone!
Edit: Corrected some things as per Pyauki’s suggestions.
In Depth : Elwing01
Many of you have seen this photograph, and many of you have asked “how is it done?” Here’s an in depth look at how this image was accomplished.
I had the idea even before my Elwing arrived. When I first saw Elwing online, I knew that I had to buy her. She’s just one of those figures that makes sense for me. The detail is amazing, and the pose is adorable. And she’s an elf. I love elf girls. My mascot character, Vihena was an elf. Once Elwing arrived, it still took me a couple of months before I actually got off my lazy butt to photograph her. Of course, I was waiting for a nice weather day to do this shot.
I can’t say there’s just one thing I like about Elwing. I love how the eyes are not made in the conventional method of spray-on eye decals. These ones were made of what appears to be ABS clear plastic, creating incredible depth and character. I’ve never seen that done before! I loved the detail in the wings headdress, and the bow is a nice touch. The details put into her belt and pouch are quite wonderous. It being from a relatively unknown manufacturer definitely made me have doubts, but it was worth a try. Unfortunately, I don’t have many other photos to show for all that I am saying, so this is less of a review than you should expect. Perhaps I will expand on the topic of this figure if I ever do take more photos of her.
First thing I did before the shoot was try to pick a background. You’d think that a forest image would be pretty easy to find. In actuality, it’s not.
The background images that I went through.
This was just a small sample of all the background images I went through. Virtually none of them were what I was looking for. Everything was either too dark, or too light. There simply wasn’t enough atmosphere, and the angle that I wanted just wasn’t right. I needed something for Elwing to appear in, but I needed the image to be large enough in scale that Elwing didn’t appear like a tiny dot in the middle of the image. In a lot of the images, if I had dropped Elwing in, she would appear too big for the scene. Shrinking her down would ruin the scale too.
The original background image that I chose.
This image had a pretty good sense of scale that I was looking for. The log in the middle looked like a decent enough size and you couldn’t really tell how big it actually was. For all you know, it could have been just a small mossy branch. The only problem I had with this background was the fact that the lighting wasn’t what I wanted. I needed something with more drama, and much more atmospheric. This image was pretty lame to start. So off to photoshop I went.
The final background image after photoshop.
I started by darkening the entire image using levels. Of course, this produced really dark shadows, and also increased the contrast for light areas, however the result still wasn’t what I needed.
I got the result I needed by using the dodge tool and painting over areas that I wanted to have brightness, to give the appearance of light shining through a canopy of trees. Those areas are typically high concentration in light, and blown out compared to the darkness and shadows of the rest of the forest in shade. I also added a few highlights around the leaves hanging around the left side, as light bounced onto it from other brighter sources.
This was also the location that I thought would work for Elwing to stand on.
The next step after that, was to create some depth. Using a mask, I separated the main log and other foreground elements from the further background, and applied a gaussian blur to it. Lack of detail gives the appearance of depth that things are further away. I also narrowed the band in levels so that the bright sections here appear brighter, making the distance seem even further away. From the looks, it’s like a clearing into a forest path with shining sun’s rays.
By giving the image depth, the forest appears much larger than it really is.
The original Elwing image.
So one sunny day, I took a photo of Elwing, pretty much exactly how I wanted it to look. The key to making a convincing composite is to make sure your lighting matches. Lighting can be tweaked in photoshop, but it’s a lot easier if you’re able to get the match right from the photo. Obviously there will still be minor tweaks, such as gamma, brightness contrast, and histogram levels. However, it’s very very difficult to tweak shadows, so it’s very important to capture the proper shadows you want. For me, I knew my light source is in the upper left, and to the front, so I was able to match that in my background photo.
The next step was to cut Elwing out of the current background, and to drop her into the new background. There are many ways to do this, but I chose to use the polygon lasso tool for greater accuracy. Considering there were a few segments that were very detailed, it would have been difficult to get accurate cuttings using any other technique. The area that was most difficult would have to be Elwing’s headdress with the two spread wings. Going around each feather was tedious and no fun.
I tried my best to keep the nice bright rim in the image. When you have rim lighting like that, it becomes much easier to match the background with your subject, as you won’t see weird anti-aliasing line problems with bad cuts. This is particular true with two similar shaded objects. Fortunately, my background was a very different color from Elwing.
The final result.
The bowstring flare was a difficult one to reproduce. The light itself fades off into the background, but of course, I don’t want that background showing! I essentially had to cut through the flare, as if ignoring that it was there. From that I had to make my own flare using various gradient shades of color, and using the transform tool to angle it right. Unfortunately the result is still not a perfect replication. Not that it would have been easy to do in the first place.
The final result.
Many others have asked about how I reproduced the convincing shadow.
Obviously, I couldn’t use the existing shadow in the original image. The problem with that is that the shadow shows a lot of the actual background that it’s on – the figure stand, the carpet and texture. It’s simply not usable. One technique which I do not recommend using, is to create a shadow in the shape of Elwng by duplicating the Elwing layer, and fill it black, then using transform tools, to squish and skew it. This is inaccurate and almost always looks artificial and forced. What I did instead, was use the original shadow as a guide. I started a new layer, and used the lasso tool to “trace” the shadow. I then filled that with black, and then set the transparency on it so that it matches perfectly with the new background.
And there you have it. An in depth look at how I completed the Elwing photoshot. Tune in for more in the future! Hopefully it won’t be as long as this one…
Using Photoshop to Create Interesting Photos
Welcome to the second part of my basic compositing tutorial. If you haven’t gone through the first tutorial yet, I suggest you do so. Otherwise you will have no idea where I’m coming from or what I am doing at this halfway point.
The purpose of this tutorial is to teach how you can use the various tools in Photoshop to bring more life to your composited image. We’ll go through things like setting mood, changing shadows and lighting, and the principles of depth using light and general photoshop filters.
As a recap of the previous tutorial, we’ve gone through the process of selecting a background that would fit our subject, (in this case, Miko is our subject) and cut out her shape using the various lasso techniques in the previous tutorial. We also did some minor adjustments using a few of Photoshop’s adjustment menus. After we were finished, we had a fairly nice and convincing composite. But it still looked a little flat and uninteresting. Let’s add a little drama.
From this particular angle, there is too much light casting on all of Miko, making her flat like cardboard in comparison to the background she is on. You’ll notice that her background does have a darker tone near the bottom. So let’s mimic the same by adding a bit of shadow to her. Ctrl+LMB her layer to select her. Because we had already cut her out in the previous tutorial, the selection should end up an exact shape. Contract the selection slightly (a few pixels worth) under Select-> Modify -> Contract, and feather the selection a few pixels worth under Select -> Feather. This will soften the shadow so that it doesn’t look like an extreme cut-out.
Using the gradient tool, set some parameters. The tool is in the toolbar that shows either a paint bucket or a gradient rectangle. Click and hold the button to bring up the dialog. We need the rectangular gradient tool. You should see a long gradient colored bar on the top left of your screen. (depending on which version of photoshop you are using) click the little arrow beside it to bring up a dialog box similar to the image shown. What we need is the one shown in the second square. This is the gradient to transparent. We also need to set the type of gradient it is. To the right of the gradient bar, you’ll see a bunch of icons in the following order – Ramp, Circular Ramp, Point Ramp, Mirror Ramp, 4 Point Ramp. Each type of gradient has its own purpose, but we will be using the Ramp. Make sure the color you are using is black. The color box on the bottom of your tool bar shows what color you are using. If it isn’t black, click on it to change the color.
Start up a new layer by clicking on the little paper icon at the bottom of your layers window. Make sure this layer is on top of Miko and is the active layer.
With your selection still active, drag a line from the bottom of Miko to her waist. This should create a rather unappealing dark shadow that goes from black to transparent. Ctrl+D to deselect. Play around with the transparency of this layer until the shadow looks more subtle.
Advanced technique: To create a more realistic shadow, instead of using just black, at this point, duplicate the Miko layer, and set her alpha blending to multiply. Then Ctrl click your shadow layer to use as a mask. Invert the selection on the multiply Miko and hit delete. Hide your shadow layer, and tweak the transparency and color values of the multiply Miko to suit.
The background itself is too sharp, and is grabbing too much attention. It also flattens the image too much. Let’s give it some depth. As the same with giving Miko some depth using light and shadow, you can also achieve depth through loss of detail. Things closer to the camera have more detail than things in the distance. Since we don’t want to ruin the amount of light shown in the image (and we’re not in a dark cavern or anything) we should blur out the background. But a general blur will not be sufficient because we also want to illustrate height. We can selectively blur what we want by using a selection mask. A mask is like a stencil you put over top of something before you spray paint so that certain elements will be covered by paint while other sections will not. The thing with photoshop masks is that transparency can also be incorporated into it, such as gradients!
At this time, hide everything except your background layer. Start up a new layer on top of it. Use the gradient tool, but this time use the Circular Ramp function. Drag a line from the vanishing point of the background, outwards. The color of this ramp doesn’t matter, as we’re using it as a mask. A vanishing point is a perspective point where objects “appear” to converge to a single point.
Now that you have a mask, hide it (the little eye icon beside the layer) and make your background layer the active layer (if you fear destroying your background image, I strongly advise duplicating the background layer and using that instead). Ctrl+LMB your mask layer to make a selection. From here, go to Filter -> Blur -> Gaussian Blur (or if you have CS2, Lens Blur looks better). Play around with the blur filter, and you’ll notice that only a portion of your background is blurry, thanks to the mask. Make sure that your blur is subtle, but not so much that it makes Miko pop too much from the background.
You’re done! But let’s take it a step further. One thing I usually like to do is increase the contrast and add a lens blur to it to make it look all dreamy. This is a VERY easy thing to do with dramatic results. It takes a lot of playing around with and you can very easily overdo it if not done right. The basic gist of it is to duplicate your image, blur it, and change the alpha blend mode to match the mood you are going for. To duplicate your image, select a visible active layer, and Ctrl+A to select the entire image. Ctrl+Shift+C will copy a flattened version of your image to the clipboard. Ctrl+D to deselect your image, and Ctrl+V to paste your composite on a new layer. Move that layer to the top. Visually, you won’t notice anything different. Now, go to Filter -> Blur -> Gaussian Blur, and blur it so that it’s barely recognizable. Change the alpha blend type in the layer window. The default setting is normal. Usually Overlay looks good. Overlay makes your bright colors brighter, and your dark colors darker.
Now you’re really done! This photoshop filtering is just the beginning! You can introduce all sorts of mood lighting and stylistic effects by using filters and masks properly. Use masks to put highlights on things, or selectively apply filters to spots. Play around with various types of filters and blend modes to achieve whatever comes to mind. The thing to keep in mind is don’t overdo it and keep it natural and subtle. Otherwise you just end up with an amaturish mess with oversaturated, over contrasted, and over filtered images!
Basic Photoshop Compositing
This tutorial assumes you know very basic photoshop skills. If you don’t know anything about Photoshop, you may have trouble following along. I will try to be as clear as possible and have images to illustrate exactly what I’m talking about where needed. This tutorial was constructed using Photoshop 7, but Photoshop CS2 and above work the same way. To see a larger image, just click on the thumbnail and a pop-up will appear. Be sure to close the pop-up before continuing.
The purpose of this tutorial is the basic construction of compositing two different subject matters together into one. For this particular example, I will be using one of my figurines and compositing her on another background.
As this image shows, we have two separate images. The first is our subject, the beautiful Ms Miko Saimyoji. The image was taken in my back yard on a nice sunny day. The second image we have is a top down view of some sakura trees in full bloom.
One of the most important things about making a composited image look convincing is the lighting. If your subject is outside, you must match it with an outside background. It’s possible to take an outdoor shot to indoors, but it’s very difficult, and this tutorial will not cover that. The differences between outdoor lighting and indoor lighting is that outdoor lighting consists of higher contrasts, and much brighter speculars, especially when it comes to figurines. And then there is also the factor of a lot of ambient light, and radiosity (bouncing light from other objects) which are a lot less muted indoors. While generally cloudy days tend to mute the appearance of these factors, it’s still there, and a lot harder to tweak. For the purpose of this tutorial, be sure to find sources that have fairly similar lighting. You’ll notice that the Sakura trees are on a somewhat cloudy day, but because of the lack of real surface area for light to bounce, it’s somewhat negligable.
Start by selecting Miko using the Magnetic Lasso tool. If you click and hold the Lasso icon, a dialog box will pop up which will allow you to select the Magnetic Lasso tool. This tool will allow you to trace over edges, and it will pick it out as best as it can. It will still be rough though. You can change the sensitivity settings as well as how frequent it drops a point sample.
Take the lasso and begin tracing the outer edge of Miko. If you make a mistake, you can hit backspace to remove a point sample and try again. You can also force the lasso to drop a point by left clicking, if you are struggling with it. Don’t be too concerned about precision here. This is just to make a nice quick selection.
Once you are done making your selection, and have looped all the way back to your first point, (a little circle will appear on your cursor indicating that clicking on that final point will close the loop) it’s time to clean up those rough selection edges. Click and hold on the Lasso tool again, and use the Polygonal Lasso Tool. This will allow you to refine your selection by clicking points manually. While your selection is still active (the marching ants around Miko), hold the Shift key to add to your selection, and hold the Alt key to subtract from your selection.
After you are done with your selection, you should have a nice clean marching ants line going around Miko. To make things easier, you can actually save this selection to a layer. On the bottom of the Layers window, click the icon that looks like a piece of paper. This will create a new layer. If you press Alt+Backspace, it will fill your selection with your current foreground color. Don’t fret! Your image is still there in tact. You just basically have a sheet above your image that you put stuff on. Click on eye to turn that layer off and save it for later.
It’s time to convert your image into a layer! The thing with Photoshop, is that each image from the start is considered a Background image. Anything you put on top of it is a separate “floating” layer that you can freely move around. The colored shape of Miko that we made just now is an example of a floating layer. The special property of a background is that it’s not transparent. If you attempt to delete a section from the background layer, all it will do is fill it with your Background color (the second colored square in your toolbar). At this point in time, we don’t want that. We want to make the background a floating layer. In the Layers window, double click on your Background. It will open a dialog box with all sorts of interesting properties. Just click “OK”. Your Background will be renamed “Layer 0″. Your image may not look different, but you now have a floating layer.
If you hit Delete right now, you’ll actually be cutting out Miko and leaving the yard. You want to invert the selection first by pressing Ctrl+Shift+I (also found under Select -> Inverse) before hitting the delete key. The result should be Miko standing on a checkerboard backdrop. The checkerboard represents transparency.
You’re now ready to drop your sakura background in. Go to the Sakura image, and Press Ctrl+A to select all. Press Ctrl+C to copy the image.
Now go back to Miko, and press Ctrl+V to paste. You will have to resize your image to fit properly. Press Ctrl+T to go into free transform mode. This will put handles around your Sakura image. The corner points will scale your image in both width and height, while the side poiunts will scale it by just width or height alone. Anywhere outside of these handles will let you rotate your image. Now you’ll find that if you drag a corner handle, the image will kind of stretch out. This is called non-uniform scaling. To prevent that from happening, hold the Shift key when scaling. This will keep your image in the correct ratio. If you want to scale it to the middle, hold the Alt key in combination with Shift.
To change the layering order of your image, under the Layers window, simply drag the Sakura layer so that it’s underneath the Miko layer.
Once you have your backdrop in the place that you want, you are basically done with all the core elements. But wait! There’s more! If you’ll notice in the above picture, Miko looks really bright, and the backdrop looks really dark. At this point, it’s all about adjustment and tweaks. Depending on the mood you are going for, it’s all about artistic flare now! Start by adjusting the background to the brightness you want. Use Levels (Image -> Adjustments -> Levels). Don’t use Auto Levels. You don’t want Photoshop dictating your artistic flare! Adjust the sliders to your liking. The arrows just under the curve adjust the darks and the lights, narrowing the band and increasing the contrast. Move the right slider until it is around the first major hump on the right, and move the left slider until it’s around the first major hump on the left. Tweak until you’re happy with the brightness and contrast.
Okay… but it’s still not quite right. It’s probably Miko herself. Repeat the same process for Miko. There are other values that you can adjust as well, such as color balance, and hue/saturation. All these are used in combination with both Miko and the Sakura trees to achieve the desired lighting matching.
Personally, I felt that Miko needed to be more shadowed because the sunlight is from above the trees. She was too light, and “popped” a little too much from the background, making it somewhat unrealistic. So there you have it! The basics of it are done! Check back again in the near future for some advanced filtering, as well as how to do proper shadow cut-outs!
lovelyduckie
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ViolentLucius
You put her in the bottom shelf?? That’s just mean, man! LoL. I have saved a space for her on the top shelf, but I have to have one more fun with her before she stands at that permanent place. Even in that spot there’ll be another fun with her ^_^ Now if only I have time to do it all XD
Great touch with the wings! It’s well drawn. ^_^ It looks more realistic in the thumbnail XD
hee hee it’s only temporary though. But who knows how long “temporary” will be with me. >_>
The way you say “I have to have one more fun with her” kinda sounds … well, hee hee I’m assuming it has something to do with lilies. ^^
I sampled colors from Saber’s clothes to get the right tonal values, but I think I need to put in more detail all around and make it more solid in order for it to seem more realistic. That might be why the thumbnail looks more realistic. ^_^
The picture with wings is just amazing and beautiful ! Congratulation !!
Arigato! ^_^
Please…stop posting about Saber Lily :’( . I’m so mad that the frickin European suppliers couldn’t get her because of money problems. They said that there will be a second batch and that they would get her. But I swear, if I see her on HLJ or HobbySearch I’m ordering her there. I’m not going to be mistreated again because of the stupid Euro suppliers, cause it’s not the first time they screw with the major shops who have no fault in this.
I’m sorry about writing like this, you know I’m not like this…but seriously besides Sheryl Nome from Megahouse this was my second major wanted figure of this year mostly because of her beauty and imponent presence.
Awww, dang Belela-san. That’s terrible! But it’s good that there will be more coming. The small-time suppliers can be janky sometimes, so it’s always a risk. I wish you good luck with getting her. And no worries, I understand your frustration. ^_^
I’m pretty happy with mine. I picked her up when I was in Japan. Re: Excalibur, I decided to display her with the sword partially drawn from the sheath. She’s holding Avalon in her other hand, but it’s a pretty cool effect considering the whole thing appears to be floating from her hand.
that’s a good idea, actually. I was contemplating that before doing the photoshoot, but decided the sheath was actually a bit distracting from everything else that was going to happen in the photo.
When I decide to take her from the “studio” back into the bottom feeder shelf, I’ll do just that. ^_^
That’s pretty cool with that painted wings, it really suits Saber that much.
You did the wings with separate layer, right?
yup. The wings are on a separate layer. I never paint on the source layers in case I want to correct something.
Oh… gonna try something like that out sometime.
My Saber is seated at the top of my make-shift shelf above my computers. Need some IKEA action soon!
lol! honestly, detolfs are not that efficient for displaying figures.
rin’s jumping around is very cute ^_^
And your winged lily is my wallpaper now, thx!
I’m glad you like it!
Yeah, I love my little mini-daughters. ^_^
You put Saber Lily at the bottom?? ahh, that’s so cruel. haha, she’s the cream of the crop, and you know what they say about cream and rising…lol. As soon as I got a tracking number for Saber Lily I started to move a bunch of my figures around to allow the whole top shelf of the detolf to be dedicated to her…although, she hasn’t spent much time in there. I’ve been moving her around constantly so I can view her..around the comp, the tv. haha ^_^
GREAT ARTWORK!!!! I saw this over at figure.fm and then made it over here to see your entry. She looks brilliant with those wings! I really liked the video too…I don’t know if you are familiar with Bob Ross, but that man is a genius with his painting, I remember sitting in front of the tv and watching his random paint lines come to life in an instant…and gotta say, I felt the same wonder when I watched your video! Job well done man! loved the little narrative with the nendos too.
I remember Bob Ross, with his happy mountains and happy trees! He was awesome! I learned nothing from him though, ha ha.
No worries, Saber Lily will get her place. She’ll be rising soon – with those wings too!
It’s good that you’re so excited about Saber Lily. She totally deserves it! Definitely one of my top favorite figures!
Thanks for checking out my site, and my artwork! Hope you enjoy my other works too!
Woooww… I still can’t believe that it took you an hour only… and man, the video was great too, I kept on rewinding because I couldn’t believe it!
Those are some serious skills RD, please post more vids of your photoshop l33t sk1llz so I can keep on opening my mouth like a fish out of the water =D
I was going to order Lily Saber but I decided against it, since I already have one Saber in my collection. It’s tough but I wanted to get something desperately, and sometimes you can’t buy everything, it’s either one or the other (lol like selling the Goku there)
^____^ I will do my best in making more photoshop videos!
I do feel sorry for Goku and Suigintou. It was very difficult to let them go, but I need money, and space, so SELL SELL SELL!!! XD
I’d like to know – what was it that you got that was more important that Saber Lily? O_o I’m REALLY curious to know! Or maybe I know already? ^_~
Hahaha yeah now that I have plans of moving out (although nothing has been decided as of yet) I’m thinking hard of selling a whole bunch of stuff… it’s no fun, having to part with beloved manga and figures ;_; (besides I already trimmed my collection, so it’s even tougher to part with everything).
Well I decided to get a cintiq. I cancelled a lot of pre-orders in figures (not that I still don’t have some lol) and had some saved moola, so I finally bought the damn expensive board. I’m more traditional but the art material sure likes to use up space everywhere (expensive to hell too) so I tried using the pc since it gives you an emulation of practically any medium; the problem is I never got used to the regular tablets (god knows I tried…) so I’m very excited of having a hybrid. will post pics when it arrives ^^
Comment#1000!
Oh my god! Yakuri-chan! You bought a Cintiq!? Sugoi! I would love to see photos of such a sexy toy when you get it! Congratulations!
I suppose if I didn’t buy so many figures, I could have bought a Cintiq a long time ago too… curse this useless hobby!
It definitely is difficult to let beloved figures go. I’ve already trimmed off a lot of figures, and it’s getting down to the ones I really like. I need to use a new standard! Saber Lily quality, or SELL!
didn’t know that you like to photoshop figures! visited your gallery and I love all ur artistic figurexphotoshop works! ^^
Thanks! Yeah, I’ve been doing photoshop pix for a few years now. It’s quite fun!
Everybody’s getting a Saber Lily ^^ And wow you’re pairing Saber Lily with Sephiroth o_o
Haven’t thought of having wings associated with Saber Lily, but it’s a nice idea. Really like your photoshop painting there!
did you get Saber Lily too?
I actually have a better idea of who to pair up Lily with, but the scale is wrong, so it will have to be a photoshop-only deal. Maybe soon tho. ^_^
I haven’t got Saber Lily, mainly because of the fact that I’m just getting Alter’s Fate True Sonic Form and that’s it for the year (excluding action/poseable figures which I can afford to get a few more). For scale figures, I am only trying to the ones I *really* want. Saber Lily truly looks nice, and being one of the most stunning figure out there when it first appeared on the web it’s one of the candidates for “the most anticipated figure of the year”, but I have to pass as you may have known that I am really picky on scale figures ^^;
That’s really good that you’re really selective of your figures! That kind of willpower and restraint is highly commendable! Good on you!
I need to learn to buy only the figures I REALLY like. I would end up with more space, and more money left over. ^_^
Your work made for the wings is awesome! And the final rendering is gorgeous.
This is the photo on Tsuki who allowed me to discover your site. I spend more often.
Thanks for visiting my site! I hope you enjoy your stay! ^_^
about the visits, I suggest you also put links on Twitter! already gains for visits, but with direct links would be even better!
trusted! and congratulations for your blog!
Thanks for the suggestion!
Q___Q ur great man…… very nice photoshopping~~~~~
Thanks so much! Stay tuned for more!
Can’t find a word strong enough to describe how I love this picture. Dude, that’s just amazing. It’s good to see new creations of yours. I’ve always enjoyed them =)
OMG! LU-K!! You’re ALIVE!!! Where the heck have you been?!
Ahaha yeah still there, staying tuned to the figure community, but keeping quiet ^^
I’ve been kindda passionately busy with other projects, especially music ones, and put aside all the anime/figure stuff. But I miss all this, and I’m thinking about “coming back”, easily =)
Well I’m glad that you’re actually alive. Not hearing you respond, or update your blog with anything on you leaving was a bit worrisome. I’m glad that you were able to get out of it and find other projects that interest you.
Figure collecting is definitely a fun hobby, but it does have its share of problems, so do think deeply on what you want to do.
It’s good to see you again, mate! Feel free to MSN me! my MSN is coolartist3d at hotmail.
no! never sacrifice Asuka!
Nooooo bottom self! I laughed at the nendoroids jumping. Had a nice chuckle. have you found a better space for Saber Lily yet?